In Pain and Glory (Dolor y gloria, 2019), Pedro Almodóvar reconstructs fragments of childhood memory through intimate rural imagery. The village scenes represent Salvador Mallo’s early years, depicting a humble upbringing shaped by maternal love, community life, and the sensory impressions that would later fuel his creativity.
These moments are crucial to the emotional backbone of the film. They contrast sharply with Salvador’s present-day solitude and physical pain, grounding the narrative in warmth, simplicity, and the formative power of memory. The village is not merely a backdrop; it is the emotional origin point of the character’s identity.
The Real Filming Location: Cave Houses of Paterna
The village scenes were filmed in Paterna, near Valencia, specifically around Carrer Coves de la Torre. This area is famous for its traditional cave houses (Cuevas), a unique form of vernacular architecture that dates back centuries.
These dwellings were excavated into soft earth and stone, providing natural insulation against heat and cold. Almodóvar used this location to authentically recreate the rural Spain of the 1950s and 1960s, closely reflecting his own childhood memories.
Why This Location Was Chosen
Almodóvar has openly stated that Pain and Glory is his most autobiographical film. The cave houses of Paterna visually echo the modest homes of his youth in rural Spain, making them an ideal stand-in for Salvador Mallo’s childhood village.
The whitewashed interiors, earth-toned exteriors, and close-knit layout reinforce themes of maternal sacrifice, memory, and emotional roots. The location adds realism and emotional truth rather than cinematic spectacle.
About the Cave Houses of Paterna
Paterna’s cave houses are one of the most distinctive cultural landmarks in the Valencia region:
- Some date back over 300 years
- Many are still inhabited today
- Others have been preserved as cultural heritage sites
They represent a way of life adapted to climate and landscape, and are a rare example of underground domestic architecture in Spain.
Visiting the Location
The cave houses area is open to visitors and can be explored on foot:
- Located just outside the city of Valencia
- Easily reachable by metro or car
- Quiet residential area, respectful visiting recommended
Some caves are accessible as cultural spaces, while others remain private homes, offering a living snapshot of traditional Valencian life.
